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5A Wednesday, April 10, 2013 ��� Daily News County Fare & tasty fresh Pho real: Vietnamese soup built on spiced broth By Judy Hevrdejs Chicago Tribune (MCT) There are noodle soups and there is pho, Vietnam���s richly complex gift to the world. Pho (say: fuh) may prompt wisecracks and punny T-shirts, judging by those we saw at Ho Chi Minh City���s Ben Thanh Market during a recent trip. But in Vietnam and at Vietnamese restaurants around the world, there is artistry in its creation. From Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, chefs at highend restaurants and cooks at chain eateries understand pho���s power. So do street vendors, those serving customers who slurp the restorative brew while perched on child-size plastic stools. ���When you eat a bowl of soup in Vietnam, you experience almost everything, culinarily speaking, that the Vietnamese value,��� chef Charles Phan writes in his book ���Vietnamese Home Cooking��� (Ten Speed Press, $35). The deeply flavored pho broth ��� paired with noodles and meat, usually pho bo (beef) or pho ga (chicken), plus garnishes ��� soothes and satisfies at breakfast (or lunch or supper). Whatever the variations, pho makes a delicious meal. It may not replace oatmeal at your breakfast table. Then again, slurping oatmeal isn���t OK but, as Phan says, slurping pho is perfectly fine. ��������� BEEF NOODLE SOUP (PHO BO) Prep: 30 minutes Cook: 50 minutes Makes: 6 servings Adapted from Charles Phan���s ���Vietnamese Home Cooking.��� His aromatic stock is flavored with star anise, cinnamon, clove and cardamom and simmers for at least 5 hours. Don���t have the time? You can sub with pho soup bases, which can be found in some supermarkets. Or consider simmering a light beef broth (hold the carrots and celery) with a small cinnamon stick, a whole clove, a star anise pod and a cardamom pod for an hour. To make paperthin raw beef top round slices, freeze the meat for 15 minutes, slice thin, then pound thinner with a meat mallet. 1 pound beef brisket 3 quarts beef stock (see recipe, page 5) Fish sauce 1 package (16 ounces) dried wide rice noodles, cooked according to package directions 12 ounces beef top round, thinly sliced 1 bunch green onions, trimmed, thinly sliced, about 1 cup Garnishes: Thai basil sprigs, mung bean sprouts, lime wedges, jalapenos thinly sliced into rings, Sriracha sauce, hoisin sauce 1. Place brisket in a large pot; add stock. Heat to a boil over high heat; lower to a vigorous simmer. Simmer until cooked through, 30-45 minutes. To check doneness, remove brisket from pot; poke with chopstick. Juices should run clear. 2. A few minutes before brisket is ready, prepare an ice-water bath. When brisket is done, remove from pot; submerge in ice water. Reserve cooking liquid. When brisket is cool, remove from ice water. Pat dry; thinly slice against the grain. Set aside. 3. Return stock to a boil. Season with fish sauce, if needed. Arrange garnishes on a platter, sauces alongside. Divide cooked rice noodles evenly among large warmed soup bowls. Divide brisket slices among the bowls, then raw beef slices. (They will cook lightly when stirred into the broth.) Ladle boiling hot stock over top. Top with green onions; serve immediately with garnishes. Nutrition information per serving: 639 calories, 18 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 116 mg cholesterol, 72 g carbohydrates, 44 g protein, 1971 mg sodium, 1 g fiber ��������� STOCK FOR PHO IS LOADED WITH AROMATIC PLEASURES Preparing stock for pho can be a bit involved. Or at least, it might seem that way compared with other stocks you���ve made. In San Francisco chef Charles Phan���s book, ���Vietnamese Home Cooking��� (Ten Speed Press, $35), he writes that the stocks ���are hardly the sexiest, most exciting recipes in the book, (but) they are some of the most important.��� Consider the flavor sources, from the bones to the spices. His recipe calls for blanching bones (not roasting ��� because, as he explains, most Vietnamese kitchens don���t have ovens) before returning them to the pot for a long, slow simmer (five hours). He suggests making the stock one day, the soup another. ���Don���t overwater (the stock). You can always add more water to it,��� Phan says. ���And pay attention to the fat ratio. Without the fat, you���re not going to taste the broth.��� ���You need to skim the fat,��� adds Phan. ���But you need to make sure that you add some back into each bowl so you don���t (lose flavor). ���A flavorful broth is absolutely key to the success of that recipe.��� ��������� BEEF STOCK Prep: 45 minutes Cook: 6 hours Makes: About 6 quarts broth Adapted from Charles Phan���s ���Vietnamese Home Cooking.��� He suggests discarding the solids, including oxtails and bones with marrow, once the stock is cooked. If you are a fan of either, we suggest nibbling some of the meat off the oxtail bones or dig the marrow out. Or use the oxtail meat for another meal, shredded into a ragu or barbecue sauce. And the marrow? Eat as is or spread on toast. 1 large yellow onion, unpeeled 1 piece (3 inches long) fresh ginger, unpeeled 2 pounds oxtails, in 2- to 3-inch pieces 2 pounds each: beef neck bones, shank bones, marrowbones 2 tablespoons light brown sugar 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground white pepper 1 piece (3 inches long) Chinese cinnamon 1 whole star anise pod 1 whole clove 1 black cardamom pod, optional 1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place onion and ginger on rimmed baking sheet; roast until onion is THE GREAT RED BLUFF HEIST NO CARDS REQUIRED FOR EVERYDAY LOW PRICING OR SALE ITEMS 731 Main St., 530.529.4012 open 7 days 5:30am-9pm 8049 Hwy 99E, Los Molinos, CA CUSTOM CUT MEATS AT NO EXTRA CHARGE ���Your Family Supermarket��� We appreciate your business - and we show it! HOURS: 7AM - 9 PM DAILY We Accept EBT 384-1563 Prices good April 10 thru April 16, 2013 It���s Back! ANNUAL SPRING MEAT BONANZA Saturday May 11th 8am-5pm Come Early For Best Selection, Items, Available While Supply Lasts! Watch For Items & Prices Coming Soon Meat Specials Bone-In Pork Butt Roast Fresh USDA Choice Boneless Beef Ball Tip Roast 299 149 Salmon Fillets $ 699 $ 149 lb. lb. Fresh, Frozen Beef T-Bone or Porthouse Steaks Split Fryer Breasts $ $ $ 699 lb. lb. lb. Produce Specials Fresh, Sweet Premium Jumbo Sweet Fresh Strawberries Fuji Apples Artichokes Green Onions or Radishes 2 lbs. Tangerines 3 lb. bag 99�� lb. ea. 2 for $ 500 $ 399 2 for ea. $ 100 Grocery Specials Sun 2X Liquid Detergent 45.4 oz. Cereal Apple Juice or $ Cider 64 oz. Now Serving Beer & Wine Best Homemade Pies in Town ��� Ice Cream Orders to go Each year, plenty of singlesubject cookbooks pop out of publishing houses like cupcakes from an oven, many of them admirable additions to any collection ��� titles like ���Mac & Cheese��� by Ellen Brown, or ���The Meatball Shop Cookbook��� by Daniel Holzman and Michael Chernow. But do we need a book whose directions can be summarized as ���mix ingredients into softened butter and chill until firm���? Ultimately, you decide, but in ���Flavored Butters��� author Lucy Vaserfirer does deliver a number of variations on compound butter (the culinary name for these mixtures) that surprise ��� French radishes, caviar, truffles ��� going beyond classics like garlic butter. Why make them? As Vaserfirer points out, these butters are ���a great vehicle for other flavors��� and can transform a grilled steak, steamed vegetables or pasta. We���ve summarized three of her recipes here. To make them, simply mix as directed, then chill before using. Or shape them into a log first, following her directions: To form into a log: Place the finished butter in the center of a sheet of parchment (or wax) paper. Bring the top of the paper over the butter. Press the butter into a log. Roll the log up in the paper and twist the ends in opposite directions. Chill until firm. FENNEL BUTTER Blend 1 stick softened unsalted butter, 1 clove garlic, grated, 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted, ground, 1���4 teaspoon kosher salt and 1 pinch hot red pepper flakes. CHIPOTLE BUTTER Force 4 chipotles in adobo sauce through a fine-mesh sieve to remove skins/seeds. Blend the puree with 1 stick softened unsalted butter, 1 clove garlic, grated, 1���4 teaspoon kosher salt and a generous pinch toasted, ground cumin. APRICOT-ALMOND BUTTER Put 6 dried apricot halves in a small bowl; cover with boiling water. Soak until rehydrated, 10-12 minutes. Drain apricots on paper towels, 1 minute. Pulse apricots in food processor with 1 stick softened unsalted butter, 1���4 cup sliced toasted almonds, 2 tablespoons confectioners��� sugar and 1���4 teaspoon vanilla. WE FEATURE BLACK CANYON ANGUS BEEF 299 Sponsored by The Gold Exchange proceeds to benefit Economic Development Branding Project every Fri. & Sat. ���Flavored Butters��� By Lucy Vaserfirer 50 recipes Harvard Common Press, $12.95 WE ACCEPT FOOD STAMPS $ Saturday, April 13th 1pm Downtown Red Bluff at the $ famous Chili Cook-Off Prime Rib By Joe Gray Chicago Tribune (MCT) soft, about 1 hour. Remove from oven; cool. Peel, then halve onion. Slice unpeeled ginger into 1���4-inch thick coins. 2. Meanwhile, prep the bones: To ensure a pot is large enough to blanch the bones without boiling over, put the oxtails, neck and shank bones in a large pot with enough water to cover by 1 inch. Remove bones. Heat water to a rolling boil. Add oxtails, neck bones and shanks back to pot. Return to a boil; boil 3 minutes. Drain pot���s contents into a colander; rinse under cold running water. 3. Rinse pot; add rinsed bones and marrow bones to pot. Add onion, ginger, sugar, salt and 8 quarts fresh water to pot. Heat to a boil over high heat; skim off any foam on surface. Lower heat to a simmer; simmer, skimming as needed to remove surface scum, 4 hours. 4. Add pepper, cinnamon, star anise, clove and cardamom. Continue simmering and skimming, 1 hour. 5. Remove from heat. Using a slotted spoon, discard large solids. Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large container. Allow to cool. Refrigerate overnight. 6. The next day, skim off most of the surface fat ��� there will probably be a lot. Leave some fat to give the stock better flavor and mouthfeel. Store in airtight containers up to 3 days in the refrigerator or up to 3 months in the freezer. Will be giving out $2500 in FREE ���Loot��� from 65 local businesses. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Finding inspiration in butter Hungry Man Dinners 141/2 - 17 oz. 11.5-16.5 oz. box 199 199 $ $ 199 Pepsi Rainbo Large or Thin Bread 18 pk Soft Drinks Budweiser or Coors Beer 30 packs 24 oz. 1/2 & 1/2 PEPPERONI +TAX Quarts HOT-N-READY 4-8 PM OR ORDER ANYTIME - LARGE DEEP DISH PIZZA - 8 CRISPY, CRUNCHY CORNERS WITH CARAMELIZED CHEESE EDGES - DOUGH BAKED O PERFECTION TO DELIVER A UNIQUE, CRISPY-ON-THE-BOTTOM, SOFT-AND-CHEWY-ON-THE-INSIDE-CRUST. RED BLUFF (530) 527-1121 108 MAIN STREET, SUITE C (BY RIVER PARK) CORNING (530) 824-8800 965 HWY 99W, SUITE 135 2 for $ 29 500 2 $ $ 179 $ 449 +crv $ 1999 Find us on Facebook! facebook.com/nuwaymarket +crv