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County Faretasty fresh Smoke little cuts of meat, too invest thousands of dollars in an open-hearth oven just to enjoy the experience of making pizza in your back- yard, it's time to fire up the grill. If you think you need to MCT photo Hickory Pork Tenderloin offers a smoky essence in a short amount of cooking time. Pork tenderloin is a good lean protein to have on hand for quick cooking. It is an ideal cut of meat, whether it is grilled, roasted in the oven or pan-seared. You also can smoke pork tenderloins on the grill. Smok- ing is a hot trend this summer, showing up in many maga- zines and books. Several of my friends are really into smoking foods. That's right, a backyard grill — gas or charcoal — can produce a perfectly charred crust and bubbling toppings, and chances are you already own one. No, you won't have dough dripping through the grates and turning into burnt toast. But you will end up with a great crust with a fla- vorful hint of smokiness, all without turning on the oven and heating up your kitchen in the summer. To get started, make or buy some pizza dough. There are recipes included below. They've smoked big hunks of pork for pulled pork, a pletho- ra of ribs (baby backs and spare ribs), copious amounts chicken and even a few burly beef briskets. But smoking is not just for big hunks of meat that require hours and hours of low and slow cooking _ which most peo- ple will tell you is true barbecue. You can achieve that smoky essence with smaller cuts, like pork tenderloin, and in a shorter amount of time, according to Jamie Purviance's new "Weber's Smoke: A Guide to Smoke Cooking for Everyone and Any Grill" (Sunset, $21.95). face liberally dusted with cornmeal and flour to pre- vent it from sticking. You can use your hands to stretch the dough or a rolling pin. You want to achieve roughly a 12-inch circle of dough. Remember this is artisan pizza, so it doesn't need to be perfectly round. You can shape it to best fit your grilling space. Brush the crust with Roll out dough on a sur- the wood chips and, if using charcoal, to build a fire). The other task that takes some time is marinating the meat. Other than that, smoking is easy because all you need to do is add soaked wood chips to hot coals. With smoking smaller cuts, it's ideal to use smaller wood chips because you only need to soak them in water 30 min- utes before using. Once you've got the heat right according to the recipe, add the chips — just keep an eye on the color of the smoke billowing out of the grill. When using char- coal, the color of smoke should be whitish. If it's gray and starting to turn black, the wood chips are being starved of oxygen and are not smoldering properly, according to Pur- viance. What you'll need are some wood chips and time (to soak smoky scented essence escapes. A word of note: Pork tenderloin, grilled to the right tem- perature, should have a rosy hue in the center, but not be raw. Also, try not to peek. Each time you lift the lid that Pork Tenderloins are a good place to start. The recipe is easy and hickory is a mild flavor that balances well with the orange glaze. You also can use apple wood chips, another common mild wood chip. If you're anxious to try smoking meats, today's Hickory HICKORY PORK TENDERLOINS WITH CITRUS- CILANTRO SAUCE Smoke little cuts of meat, too Makes: 6 Preparation time: 20 minutes Total time: 40 minutes SAUCE 2 navel oranges 1 lime 1 1 cup sugar⁄2 1 cup bourbon⁄2 ⁄2 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves PORK excess fat and silver skin Olive oil 1 1 large handful hickory wood chips, soaked in water for at least 30 minutes To make the sauce: Finely grate the zest from the oranges and lime and set them aside. Juice the oranges (you should have 1 cup juice) and the lime (you should have 3 table- spoons juice). 1 teaspoon kosher salt ⁄2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes Return the saucepan to medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Cook until syrupy and reduced again to1 occasionally. Pour into a heatproof container and cool com- pletely. Stir in the orange and lime zest and the cilantro. To make the pork: Lightly brush the tenderloins with oil and season evenly with the salt and red pepper flakes. Prepare a two-zone fire for medium heat — one area should be about 350 degrees and the other 450 degrees. If using a charcoal grill, prepare the coals, banking them to one side of the grill, or use charcoal baskets set on each side. This will be the hotter area. ⁄2 cup, stirring over direct medium heat, with the lid closed as much as pos- sible, until the outsides are seared and golden brown, about 10 minutes, turning occasionally. Then generously brush the tops with some of the sauce, close the lid, and cook for 3 minutes. Turn the pork over and brush with more sauce. Close the lid, and cook until the internal temperature reach- es 145-150 degrees, about 5 minutes more. Remove from the grill and let rest for 5 minutes. Cut the tenderloins crosswise into 1/2-inch slices and serve with the remaining sauce. Brush the cooking grate clean. Drain and add the wood chips to the charcoal and put the lid on the grill. When the wood begins to smoke, place the tenderloins the heat. Carefully stir in the bourbon, taking care that it doesn't ignite. ⁄2 In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the orange and lime juice and the sugar and bring to a boil, stirring just until the sugar is dissolved. Continue cooking, without stirring, until the mixture is covered with large, glossy bubbles and is reduced to about1 MCT photo Baking pizza is not just for the oven, but dough can be baked on an outdoor grill. hot crust when it comes off the grill, so that it can get back on the grill quickly without sticking to the peel. Kathy Lehr, a nationally recognized bread baking instructor, said most folks are surprised by just how easy it is to make pizza on the grill. "It's not hard at all, it's really not," she said. olive oil on both sides. Make sure the grill grates are clean and well-oiled. Heat a gas grill on high for 15 minutes. For a charcoal fire, make sure the lighted briquettes have turned white-hot in color. When trying out differ- ent methods, one that proved most helpful was "The 1-2-3 Technique for Grilled Pizza" from the book "Pizza on the Grill: 100 Feisty Fire-Roasted Recipes for Pizza & More" by Elizabeth Karmel and Bob Blumer (Taunton Press, 2008). She said the direct-indi- rect heat method is fine for baking thin-crust pizzas, but for thicker crusts, she rec- ommends using a pizza stone on top of the grill grates. Pizza stones can with- stand the high heat of the grill. For a gas grill, put the stone on the grill grate when you turn the grill on and preheat it at medium-high temperature for half an hour before making the pizza, Lehr said. For grilling the pizza, increase the heat to high. & Pizza on the grill easier than it seems per side. The stone remains over direct heat for grilling and it is important to check that it isn't burning. Lehr prefers a very wet dough for making a thick- crust pizza on a stone on the grill. She recommended a no-knead dough recipe by Jim Lahey, owner of New York's acclaimed Sul- livan Street Bakery, from his new book "My Pizza: The Easy No-Knead Way to Make Spectacular Pizza at Home" (Clarkson-Potter, 2012). It isn't possible to put such a wet dough directly on grill grates, which is why a stone is a must for this type of long-rising dough. It will produce a crust with an exceptional chew, she said. With either traditional dough baked on grill grates or a very wet dough baked on a stone, there is some practice involved. Here is a basic dough recipe to get started. DOUGH wait until the briquettes are white hot, then spread them out into a single layer, and place the stone on the grates to preheat over the white coals for half an hour. After the stone is pre- heated, she said the method is the same — cooking one side of the crust and then flipping it over, topping the cooked side and baking the other side. If using a charcoal grill, On a stone with the grill lid closed, on a gas grill set to high, the pizza should cook in about 3 to 5 minutes NO-KNEAD PIZZA 3 3⁄4 cups of all-purpose or bread flour 1⁄4 tsp. active dry yeast 2 tsp. salt 1 1⁄2 cups water Use a wooden spoon or your hands to mix all ingre- dients together in a bowl until all of the flour is incor- porated. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature for 18 to 24 hours. divide into balls and shape into crusts. Makes 4 pizza crusts, about 8 to 10 inches each. Wednesday, August 29, 2012 – Daily News 5A Punch dough down, Their technique requires a grill that has both direct heat (over the flames) and indirect heat (off the flames). On a gas grill, that means turning off one burn- er or one side of the grill. If using a charcoal grill, it is important to align the bri- quettes on one side of the grill, so that there is a side free for indirect-heat grilling. 2 pork tenderloins, each about 1 pound, trimmed of cup. Remove from Blumer's process is as sim- ple as one-two-three: Step One: After preheat- ing, set the temperature to medium and use your hands or a peel to set the dough directly on the grates over direct heat. (If using a char- coal grill, place the dough on the indirect heat side to avoid scorching it.) Close the lid and grill for about three minutes, until the bot- tom is golden brown. Resist the urge to peek inside the grill at this point. However, if you do, you may notice the crust puffing up high. This is fine; it will deflate as it bakes and when removed from the heat. Step Two: Use a pizza peel and tongs to remove the crust. Flip it over so the uncooked side is facing down on the peel, again well-dusted with some cornmeal. Place sauce and toppings of your choice on the grilled side. Then, Karmel and Step Three: Place the pizza back on the grill, over indirect heat. Close the lid and let it bake for 7 to 10 minutes until the bottom is golden brown, and the cheese melted and bubbly. Our experiments showed that the crust was easiest to shape and work with when the dough was a bit colder to start. Working outside in midday sunshine and heat, the dough became more dif- ficult to handle as it got warmer and softer. It's also a good idea to have all of the toppings prepped and ready to top the 8049 Hwy 99E, Los Molinos, CA NO CARDS REQUIRED FOR EVERYDAY LOW PRICING OR SALE ITEMS We appreciate your business - and we show it! 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