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5A Wednesday, November 6, 2013 – Daily News County Fare & tasty fresh Myth we've been fed by the 'healthy eating' industry Recipe: Chocolate Pecan Pie Government and health charities have been doling out duff healthy eating advice for decades, but when are they going to admit it? That's the question raised by the remarks of cardiologist Aseem Malhotra, who writing in the BMJ has challenged the orthodoxy that the consumption of foods containing saturated fat, such as butter and red meat, causes heart disease. Malhotra is brave and principled to speak out, yet he is far from a lone voice. In 2010, a major review of scientific studies on fat, published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, concluded that contrary to what we have been lead to believe, "there is no convincing evidence that saturated fat causes heart disease". In the UK, other independent-minded nutritionists and medics, including John Briffa, Zoe Harcombe, and Malcolm Kendrick, have vociferously countered the biggest public health dogma of our times. It's the same story in the US, where influential voices, such as Garry Taubes, Michael Pollan and Robert Lustig, have all called time on the notion that saturated fat is the devil incarnate. Why? Counter-intuitive though it might seem, there's no evidence that fat is fattening. Indeed by sating the appetite effectively, it may prevent overeating. To quote Kendrick, "there is not one molecule of evidence to suggest that saturated fat consumption causes obesity". What's certain is that saturated fat is a key component of our cell membranes, and essential for the production of certain hormones. It also acts as a carrier for important vitamins, and is vital for mineral absorption, and many other biological processes. So why has the public health establishment so assiduously encouraged us to shun it? Viewed charitably, public health advice is just like any other socially constructed wisdom in that it gains authority through endless repetition. And who can blame GPs and other well-intentioned purveyors of health guidance up and down the land, if they recycle and disseminate uncritically tablets of nutritional wisdom dispensed from above? Viewed cynically, however, it would be naive not to notice how the anti-satfat message has been used effectively by food manufacturers and processors to woo us away from whole, natural foods, such as but- ter, which is only minimally processed, on to their products, which are entirely the opposite, such as margarine. For decades now, processed food companies have been using lowfat labels to give a halo of health to their industrially manufactured, nutritionally compromised, food constructions; everything from lowcalorie yoghurt and pizza, to breakfast cereals and ready meals. The motto has been, if you want to sell crap, make sure it's low-fat crap, because few people will look beyond the low-fat label to scrutinise the product's composition. The fatwa on sat fat has been a fabulous boon for the sugar and cereals industries. It acts as a red herring, drawing our attention away from the much likelier cause of obesity: an overabundance of sugar and refined carbohydrates, which disrupt blood sugar and insulin levels, encouraging fat Makes one 9-inch pie CRUST: 1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 8 tablespoons unsalted butter (9 if using unbleached flour) 1/4 cup plain yogurt 1 tablespoon ice water FILLING: 2 cups pecan halves 2 ounces 54 to 64 percent chocolate, coarsely chopped 1/4 cup light corn syrup 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted 1 cup lightly packed dark brown sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon rum, bourbon or brandy 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 large eggs For the crust, thoroughly mix flour and salt in a large bowl. Cut butter into chunks; add to bowl. Using two knives or a pastry blender, cut butter into successively smaller pieces, scraping bowl bottom and tossing the pieces to coat them with flour as you work, until the largest pieces are pea-sized and the rest like breadcrumbs. Mix yogurt with ice water; drizzle over flour, tossing with a rubber spatula, folding and pressing the dough to distribute moisture. If necessary, drizzle up to 1 more tablespoon water, until moist enough to hold together when pressed. Dump dough on a sheet of plastic wrap, then compress into a flat disk; wrap and refrigerate 1 hour or up to 3 days. Remove dough from refrigerator; let stand until pliable enough to roll. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 14-inch circle, about 1/8-inch thick. Ease it into the pie pan. Trim overhang to 1 inch. (Save bits for patching later.) Turn excess dough under and flute edges. Refrigerate at least 45 minutes before baking. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread nuts on a baking sheet; bake 6 to 9 minutes, until fragrant and lightly colored. Set aside. Increase oven temperature to 400 degrees. Press a 12-inch square of foil, shiny side down, against bottom and sides of crust. Tent foil over — not touching — crust edges, like an awning. Prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork, piercing through the foil. Fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake 20 minutes. Remove foil and weights; bake 10 to 12 minutes, until golden brown. Meanwhile, combine chocolate, corn syrup and butter in a double boiler set over barely simmering water. Stir until melted and smooth. Stir in sugar, salt, rum and vanilla. Add eggs; stir until mixture is well-blended and hot to the touch. Set aside, stirring from time to time. When crust is baked, press bits of reserved dough into any holes to patch. Fill with pecan; pour hot filling over nuts. Bake until the filling is puffed and cracked at the edges and brown in patches, 10 to 12 minutes. production and storage in the body. It has been bad news for livestock farmers, who produce dairy and meat, but they don't have the lobbying might of the carb and sugar corporations. But it's hard to admit that we got it wrong. Reacting to Malhotra's remarks, health charities have defended their lowfat advice in the usual kneejerk manner, despite it becoming increasingly obvious that it's time for a paradigm shift. Consider the fate of eggs, one of nature's most complete foods. In the 1960s, the typical Briton ate five a week, then because they contained cholesterol, the nutritional establishment told us to eat no more than two. We dutifully acted on this guidance, and egg consumption slumped as we took in droves to eating nutritionally empty breakfast cereals. Three decades later, forced by unarguable evidence that eating cholesterol in eggs had no impact whatsoever on blood cholesterol levels, egg restriction advice was quietly ditched, and remodelled to say that eggs were part of a balanced diet. Did we get an apology on eggs? Did we hell. So don't hold your breath waiting for a climb-down on saturated fat. The healthy eating establishment will choke on its low-fat cornflakes before it coughs that up. WE ACCEPT FOOD STAMPS WE FEATURE Recipe: Brown Butter Pumpkin Pie BLACK CANYON ANGUS BEEF 8049 Hwy 99E, Los Molinos, CA NO CARDS REQUIRED FOR EVERYDAY LOW PRICING OR SALE ITEMS We appreciate your business - and we show it! HOURS: 7AM - 9 PM DAILY Prices good November 6-12, 2013 Boneless Pork Beef Loin Chops Top Sirloin Center Cut Steaks Pork Spareribs Small Size Boneless, Skinless Chicken Thighs 2 $ 99 lb. 384-1563 Meat Specials We Accept EBT Boneless CUSTOM CUT MEATS AT NO EXTRA CHARGE "Your Family Supermarket" 3 2 $ 99 Beef Eye of the Round Roast or Steaks Frozen Norbest Turkeys 2 $ 49 lb. Boneless 3 $ 49 lb. $ 79 lb. 1 $ 29 lb. lb. Produce Specials Fresh, Serves 8-10 1 prebaked single crust pie shell 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup light brown sugar 2 tablespoons water 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 large eggs 2 large egg yolks 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1 2/3 cups pumpkin puree 1/2 teaspoon each allspice, cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger Pinch ground cloves 1 teaspoon molasses 2 teaspoons lemon juice 2/3 cup whole milk 1/3 cup carrot juice In a heavy-bottomed skillet, melt butter over medium-low heat. Continue to cook, whisking occasionally, as the butter foams, then turns golden, then nut brown. When the butter is nut brown, immediately whisk in brown sugar, then the water. Bring mixture to a boil; simmer until a candy thermometer reads 225 degrees. (Or until mixture smells caramelized and starts to darken.) Off heat, slowly add cream (the mixture will bubble rapidly) and whisk until smooth. Let cool at least 10 minutes. Stir in vanilla. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place the prebaked pie shell on a rimmed baking sheet. In a separate bowl, lightly whisk the eggs and yolks together with the salt. Using a food processor, blend pumpkin with the spices, molasses, and lemon juice until smooth. Stream the brown-butter butterscotch through the food processor's feed tube and process until combined. Stream in egg mixture, then milk and carrot juice; stopping once or twice to scrape down the sides. Strain filling through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing through with a rubber scraper. Pour into the prebaked shell. Bake on center rack 45 to 55 minutes, rotating the pan 180 degrees when the edges start to set, about 30 to 35 minutes through the baking time. The pie is finished when the edges are set and puffed slightly and the center is no longer liquid but still quite wobbly. Do not overbake or the custard can separate; the filling will continue to cook and set as the pie slowly cools. Cool completely on a wire rack, 2 to 3 hours. Serve slightly warm, at room temperature or cool. Keeps refrigerated for 2 days or at room temperature for 1 day. – Courtesy Emily and Melissa Elsen, "The Four & Twenty Blackbirds Pie Book" (Grand Central Life & Style, $30, 224 pages) U.S.A. #1 Red Yams Leaf Lettuce 99¢ 79¢ Fresh Fresh Gala Apples Bartlett Pears Italian or Yellow Squash 99¢ Sweet Juicy Satsuma Tangerines 79¢ 99¢ 99¢ lb. Fresh Red or Green California Grown Washington Farm lb. ea. lb. lb. lb. Grocery Specials BIG COUPON SAVINGS *General Mills Cereals: FREE MILK • Honey Nut Cherrios (17oz.) • Cinnamon Toast Crunch (16.2oz.) • Lucky Charms (16oz.) • Trix (14.8oz.) • Resse's Puff's (18oz.) • Golden Grahams (16oz.) • Cocoa Puff's (16.5oz.) • Fiber One Honey Cluster 14.25oz.) ANY 3 participating* General Mills cereals when you purchase in a single transaction between 11/6/13 and 11/12/13 300 (max value $3.99, any brand, any size) $ Coupon will only be redeemed by IGA. Valid in stores only. 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