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The slaws of nature Cabbage doesn't have to be the No. 1 choice for the mix By Barbara Damrosch The Washington Post Coleslaw, as we know it, is an odd, slightly deviant dish. Historically, it is based on cab- bage, and the name is said to originate with the Dutch koolsa, or "cabbage salad." First ad- opted by Americans during the Dutch era of early New York, it's still a cabbage salad, but its current use denies the seasonal connection we often have with traditional dishes. Cabbage is a vegetable of cool fall weather and even cold winter weather, because it keeps very well in cold storage. But modern coleslaw is the salad of summer barbecues, fish fries and picnics — maybe because it doesn't wilt in the heat, and travels well. A typical coleslaw might be made up of shredded green cabbage, a little sliced carrot, celery seed, onion and vinegar — plus gobs of mayonnaise and sugar. Recently I got to think - ing about how it could be improved. I started with the idea that other cole crops might be used besides cabbage. It is a family that also contains mustard greens, broccoli, turnips, kale, collards, aru - gula, Brussels sprouts and most Asian vege- tables. Most are derived from a wild maritime cabbage of northern Europe that looks like a somewhat scraggly collard. The name cole is from caulis, the Latin word for stem. I'll buy that. Ground-hugging ball cabbages might not be stemmy at all, but I once grew some heir - loom collards that outstripped my 5-foot-3 self. This week there was one little red cabbage left in our root cellar, but a cole crop prowl led me to some beautiful, tender, young baby bok choi plants in our unheated greenhouse, and to some Tuscan kale. I thought the dark red cabbage, light green bok choi and deep blue- green kale would make a bright montage, and that the softer texture of the bok choi and kale would temper the cabbage's hearty crunch. I sliced them all as thinly as possible and mixed them in a bowl. I enjoy mayonnaise as much as the next person, but I don't like the way it masks the colors in a salad, so I made a runnier dressing of half mayo and half vin - aigrette, in which I'd steeped a bit of finely chopped onion. I drew the line at the cupful of sugar you often find in coleslaw recipes, but I wanted just a little sweetness, so I tossed in a hand - ful of dried cranberries, the kind that come pre-sweetened with concentrated fruit juice. (Raisins would have been good, too.) The re- sult partnered well with roast chicken and po- tatoes, for a hearty midday farm meal. Often a dish that's become a cliche needs a new direction, and I'm certainly not the first cook to give coleslaw a redesign. But for me, that means starting with ingredients inspired by the season rather than a mind-set in which anything goes. I try to avoid what I call Ha - waiin pizza syndrome. Contrary to what you might think, crushed pineapple does not go with everything. Damrosch's latest book is "The Four Sea - son Farm Gardener's Cookbook." Greens EntErprisE-rEcord dark green heads of broccoli are displayed at the farmers market in chico. Author Barbara damrosch suggests using other winter veggies to blend in a coleslaw salad. Online: damrosch's website is www. fourseasonfarm.com. AngEl HurAcHA — EntErprisE-rEcord the inside of sushi Burrito King is bright and clean. By Angel Huracha Correspondent Once upon a time, in a small college town, stu- dents found a sushi place where they didn't have to sacrifice their wallets and perhaps the risk of mer - cury poisoning to satisfy their craving. In the odd world of Su- shi Burrito King and Boba Tea Zone, which months ago was known as Pizza King, where one would wait since the pleistocene era for a pizza, comes a place where you can get a sushi roll the size of a bur - rito and walk away not feeling like you should hit up a drive-through after. There are many reason to love sushi, but typically there is always the prob - lem of not feeling entirely full. The visual of a tiny and bite-size dish that you can eat with your fingers has a strong appeal. But so many times you have to order the edamame as a pre-meal snack, perhaps a m iso s ou p a s a n a pp e - tizer or even a second roll just to feel full. The result is suddenly realizing how expensive your bill was just to find Nemo wrapped around your spicy tuna roll. It's difficult to take the na me S us hi B ur ri to K in g seriously. That thought alone gives me a men - tal image of a sushi roll wrapped around a tortilla with guacamole inside. The inside decor has the euphoric feel of a mall- airport food court. Decked in red and white colors, the building was very cle an . When I arrived at the counter the staff was very polite and attentive. I or - dered the grilled chicken burrito. With tax the to- tal price came to $7.47. The burrito, wrapped in nori (seaweed), included lettuce, cucumber, jicama and corn salsa inside. While waiting for my food, an employee came to greet me and politely as ke d h ow I f ou nd t he place. I answered that a friend had recommended it to me. She smiled and thanked me. The burrito was fairly large. The wrap went around it completely and had no problems keeping it together. The taste was amazing and with a dash of honey mustard it added even more flavor to the al - ready delicious burrito. I was amazed at how much I enjoyed the place. Along with sushi burri - tos they carry sushi rolls and combo boxes starting at $6, boba teas or blended fruit smoothies at $2.95 and hot wings and pop - corn chicken. Nonetheless the ex- perience was fun. It's al- ways exciting when new eateries have a different and unique take on food. It serves as a great dining place and a convenient on- the-go fashion place due to their drive-through op - tion. Don't be thrown off by the name because it's certainly worth the trip. Angel Huracha is a Chico State University student. Each week he's asked to find a meal that costs no more than $8 (one hour at mini - mum wage) and then write about it. Sushi Burrito: Don't be fooled by the name stArvinG stuDent " i enjoy mayonnaise as much as the next person, but i don't like the way it masks the colors in a salad, so i made a runnier dressing of half mayo and half vinaigrette, in which i'd steeped a bit of finely chopped onion." — Barbara Damrosch Location: 101 cohasset road, chico. Hours: daily, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Telephone: 530-892-8688 SuShi Burrito King staff reports All 11 wineries on the North Sierra Wine Trail will be offering wine, olive oil, appetizers, music, art and more noon-5 p.m. April 26 and 27 during the "Bring Out the Barrel" weekend. One ticket ($20 in advance on the web site or at partic - ipating wineries) provides admission and tasting at all the wineries extending from Oroville through Bangor and on to the north Yuba commu - nities of Oregon House and Dobbins. As the most northern part of the Sierra Foothills ap - pellation, the North Sierra Foothills offers a variety of microclimates and terroirs, and is an emerging wine re - gion in California. These small wineries, mostly family-owned with their own vineyards, offer a wide variety of selections and styles. Many will be sampling straight from the barrel. wine 'Bring Out the Barrel' weekend is April 26-27 Among the 11 wineries are: • Bangor ranch Vineyard & Winery (bangor-ranch.com) • clos saron (clossaron.com) • grant-Eddie Winery (grantedwinery.com) • grey Fox Vineyards (greyfox.net) • Hickman Family Vineyards (hickmanfamilyvineyards.com) • long creek Winery & ranch (longcreekwinery.com) • lucero Vineyards and Winery (lucerovineyards.com) • Quilici Vineyards (quilicivineyards.com) • renaissance Vineyard & Winery (renaissancewinery.com) • spencer shirey Winery (spencershireywines.com) • purple line urban Winery (purplelinewinery.com) winerieS Online:online: For tickets, visit northsier- rawinetrail.com EntErprisE-rEcord w I-5 at Liberal Avenue in Corning | 530 528-3500 | www.rollinghillscasino.com Friday, April 18th a�er the Rodeo DooWah Riders Country with a Cajun Twist • No Cover Charge Friday, April 18th a�er the Rodeo Friday, April 18th a�er the Rodeo Friday, April 18th a�er the Rodeo Friday, April 18th a�er the Rodeo FooD » redbluffdailynews.com wednesday, April 9, 2014 » MorE At FACEBOOK.COM/RBDAILYNEWS And TWITTER.COM/REDBLUFFNEWS B4