Look Book

4 | e Jewelry Book W ELCOME TO TJB's Digital Summer/After- Show 2025 issue, y'all! e stories the jewels shown in this year's "COUTURE Scrapbook" have to tell are worth diving into. Let your joy be sparked by the luchador rings from Francesca Villa's 'e Wrestlers' collection; appreciate the Georgian influences reinterpreted for today in Circa 1700's designs; and note how the cat's eye chrysoberyls in the Figural 'Owl' Pin at For Future Reference Vintage have been set so that their chatoyancies are aligned. Ponder how each of the micro-mosaic butterfly necklaces from SICIS Jewels's 'Nymphalia' collection are lovely on their own but make an incredibly dramatic statement when worn as an assemblage; and conversely, how the pieces in Harwell Godfrey's nostalgia-filled 'Granny Squares' collection prove that something we normally think of as an assemblage can reveal a previously unnoticed glamour when broken down into its individual parts. Marvel over the masterful display of old- school techniques and craftsmanship used in Sevan Biçakçi's Micro-Mosaic Nazar Ring; in LALAoUNIS's Aurelia Chandelier Earrings; and in COOMI's En Tremblant Emerald Affinity Ring. Revel in the red carpet-ready, toujours glamour quality of pieces such as Sutra Jewels's OOAK Brown and White Diamond Bypass Ring (yes, please!); Nada Ghazal Fine Jewelry's Matrix Double Ring (oh là là!); and everything Lalla Busatti designs for Busatti 1947 (swoon!); and Maison H Jewels's Bespoke High Jewellery Diamond Glove (abs- and-pecs-olutely!). Acknowledge the sophisticated combinations of stones in Andreoli's vibrantly color-saturated Snake Rings; the incredible lit-from-within quality of the emeralds used in the Carved Emerald Pendant and the Round Bezel-Set Emerald Drop Necklace from Goshwara's 'G-ONE' collection; and how Moksh has cleverly juxtaposed the inherent femininity of a flower with the masculine lines of a cigar band ring with a satin finish. Appreciate not only how a Texas Hill Country sunrise inspired Jamie Turner's Solara Opal Pendant while an Alaskan sunset was the muse behind HOWL's Lorian Bracelet; but also Farah Khan's clever use of clear ceramic in her Amaira Voyage Rings; that Alexander Laut's high jewelry background and love for sapphires are both immediately apparent when examining his Silk Road Bracelet; and the ways in which the pair of pendants from Mike Joseph Jewellery's 'DUNE' collection evokes the desert through texture, shape, and perspective. You don't need a degree in astronomy to appreciate why Meredith Young's Eye Ring Ombre Ring is part of her 'Supernova' collection; nor must you be an expert in pietra dura to recognize Şinork Ağdere's mastery of intarsia lapidary when viewing LORD Jewelry's Inlaid 'Butterfly' Pendant. High jewelry aficionados will delight over the delicate pink and violet hues of Vietnamese spinel in Oscar Heyman's Multi-Colored Spinel Bracelet; the miniature painting prowess on display in Lydia Courteille's Revoir Palermo Ring; the stone-on-stone aspect of Saboo Fine Jewels's High Jewelry Emerald and Jade Cocktail Ring; the mesmerizing rare, olive-hued sapphire in Bayco's Unique Green Sapphire and Diamond Ring; the seemingly casual (but oh-so-deliberate) placement of the pearls and diamonds in Cicada's Conch Pearl Chandelier Earrings; and the talismanic qualities of Maison Alix Dumas's Unique Eye Ring. e ease with which one can actually wear a jewel is always a key factor of its appeal, as evidenced by Victor Velyan's Gold 'Pebble' Necklace; SYNA Jewels's Mogul Pendants; MAOR's celestially-inspired 'Saturn' collection; Terzihan's Black Editions Aztec Pendant; Lizzie Mandler's knife-edge rings and bracelets; the Petite Bonded Flower Pendants from Retrouvai's 'BOND' collection; and Jorge Adeler's Georgia on Our Mind Cufflinks. And then there are those pieces to which I'm drawn for their cleverness, whether for utilizing something seemingly mundane in a novel way, innovatively using a process, material, or technique, or forcing us to view something in a way we might never have considered. It's the use of tapered baguettes in Nikos Koulis's Spectrum Rings; the way bands of green agate are wrapped around Picchiotti's Tanzanite, Green Agate, and Diamond Cocktail Ring; how the cymbal pendants and earrings in Jade Ruzzo's 'Percussion' collection feature indentations where they would have been struck by drumsticks; the way Chantecler's 'Mediterranea Ricci' collection zhuzhed something as banal as sea urchins into bejeweled titanium tuffets; that the gold in 886 e Royal Mint's Pavé Night Sky Choker was extracted from old electronics and circuit boards; how Toonz has reconceived emoji-like icons as fine jewelry; and pretty much anything that comes from the mind of Silvia Furmanovich. at said, I suppose the question isn't so much whether or not these jewels speak to you, so much as what you let them tell you. Enjoy! Editor's Letter/COUTURE Scrapbook Michael Shulman, Editor T h e J e w e l r y B o o k After Show 2025 | Editor's Letter

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