Look Book

Winter 2025 | 23 Piaget Ladies 18K Gold Manual Wristwatch with an oval case surrounded by brilliant-cut Diamonds (1.00tcw), featuring a Coral face and an integrated woven mesh bracelet (Switzerland, c.1970s). Concave Sunburst Ring featuring 30 Diamonds (3.25tcw), set in 18K Gold (Kutchinsky, England, c.1973). Cocktail Ring featuring an oval cabochon Ruby (3.85cts) and Diamonds (0.80tcw), set in 18K Gold (c.1980s). Sliding Link Necklace in 18K Gold (c.1970s). Boulder Opal Ring featuring a Boulder Opal and Diamonds (0.25tcw), set in 14K Gold (c.1970s) Reflector Ring featuring Diamonds (4.00tcw), set in 18K Rose Gold (c.1990s). So, why would someone want to buy unsigned estate jewelry as opposed to signed? As with most commodities, economics. While signed pieces retain their value and can oen be found at auction, what you're paying for with an unsigned piece are the materials and the design. So, if you don't care about maintaining a jewel's provenance or intend to sell it at auction in the future, it can be a win-win! Perhaps it's a small ring that you want to make larger. Maybe it's a gold pendant with a fabulous emerald, and you really just want the emerald to be put in something else and will have the gold melted down. While these sorts of situations are anathema to collectors of signed pieces (and rightly so); to the owners of unsigned estate pieces, they don't warrant even a moment of disquiet. But don't take my word for it: e first store to pick up For Future Reference Vintage was none other than Bergdorf Goodman (New York, NY), followed in very short order by the likes of Twist (Portland, OR, and Seattle, WA), Just One Eye (Los Angeles, CA), and Marissa Collections (Naples, FL). What these and other retailers appreciate is that Molofsky will fine-tune their orders to meet the needs of their customers. So, for instance, while Bergdorfs could be on the lookout for chunky statement pieces (as with the necklace of 18K gold set with an antique bronze coin that's become a favorite piece of Taylor Swi's; or the large, concave ring of 18K gold and diamonds that's been seen on both Rihanna and Jennifer Lopez, of late); the folks at Twist could be more interested in antique-looking pieces and anything with coral, while the team at Marissa might have a coterie of clients clamoring for anything in the style of David Webb. Explains Molofsky, "We very much curate specifically for individual retailers and their clients. It's always with an eye toward the brands and the types of jewelry that I like—these bolder, gold- forward, gem-focused pieces—that I also think are in the zeitgeist. But if some stores are a little artier, or slightly more organic, or like certain colors more, or tend towards a slightly different silhouette, we can accommodate all of that. So, every store really has their own very special assortment; a huge plus for clients who want exceptionally unique jewelry." Fo r Fu tu re Refe re n ce . co m @ Fo r Fu tu re Refe re n ce

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