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5A Wednesday, April 17, 2013 – Daily News County Fare & tasty fresh The artistry of economy Pork, beef products to get new names By Russ Parsons Los Angeles Times (MCT) LOS ANGELES — Here in California we love to brag about our abundance of wonderful seasonal ingredients and how that makes good food easy. That's more or less true, but I have to confess that I've also always had a sneaking admiration for those cooks who can whip up something from nothing. Sure, it's wonderful to be able to just pick up a sack of Ojai Pixie mandarins and a box of medjool dates and call it dessert. But you've really got to admire someone who can take a couple of wilted zucchinis, a sprouting onion and some canned tomatoes and turn that into something delicious — the real-life equivalent of the proverbial stone soup. I've got my own version, and, in fact, it does start with something hard as a rock. In a battered plastic bag in the deepest recesses of my refrigerator, I've got a hidden stash of gold: rinds from used chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Whenever my wife finds them, she pulls them out and asks disbelievingly: "You're saving these?" And probably 98 percent of people would have the same reaction. But those rock-hard rinds are flavor bombs, packed with umami. Simmer them in a pot of beans, in a soup, even in a tomato sauce, and you probably won't actually taste Parmesan, but you'll certainly taste the difference. Those rinds can also take on a more starring role. One of the trending preparations in restaurants right now is Parmesan broth — at its essence, simmered Parmesan rinds. It makes a wonderful light sauce with a subtle nutty, buttery flavor that serves as a complementary backdrop to all kinds of spring dishes. There's a little more to it than simply boiling rinds, of course. I start mine with a combination of chicken broth and water — half and half is a good starting point. Most canned stocks and broths are better appreciated for the flavors they imply rather than the ones they actually possess. And in this case, even a good homemade stock would be too strong by itself. You want to taste the cheese, not the chicken. With that I simmer some sliced garlic and a handful of whatever herb trimmings I have from prepping the other ingredients. Again, this is an Italian-style broth, meant to be subtle. It's not quite something from nothing, but it comes pretty close. A FRESH APPROACH WITH PARMESAN BROTH The best thing I've made By Susan M. Selasky Detroit Free Press (MCT) What's in a name? Plenty when it comes to pork chops, and it's all about to change. On labels, different cuts of pork chops are named from bone-in to boneless loin chops, to center cut to thick and thin to loin and rib chops. Confusing, isn't it? The National Pork Board and the National Cattlemen's Beef Association recently announced new names for more than 350 cuts of beef and pork. The move, which follows a collaborative two-year study on the issue, aims to reduce consumer confusion with labels that easily identify the cut of meat and what part of the animal it comes from. Take pork butt for example. The cut, which is actually from the shoulder, will be renamed Boston Roast. Consumers will start seeing the changes on store shelves in the next couple of months, just in time for the summer grilling season. "The new names will help change the way consumers and retailers talk about pork," National Pork Board President Conley Nelson says at www.pork.com. "But more important, the simpler names will help clear up confusion that consumers currently experience at the meat case, helping to move more pork in the long-term." The names are said to be more universal and easier for consumers to choose. And the pork industry is renaming many pork cuts with beefy names. A pork loin chop will now be labeled as Pork Porterhouse Chop and pork rib chop center will become Pork Ribeye Chop. Out is the top loin chop and in a New York Chop. In the beef case, consumers will see flat iron steak — a fabricated cut from the shoulder — instead of top blade steak. And coulette replaces top sirloin beef, but ground beef will still be ground beef. The two industries are updating, along with the seal of approval from the USDA, the 40 year-old Uniform Retail Meat Identification Standards, which most retailers use. "Sometimes they say change is good, we'll have to wait and see," says Frank Saverino, director of meat and seafood for Holiday Market, Royal Oak, Mich. "Not only does the public have to get used to these new names, but in the industry it will be challenging." Pork and beef also will have new packaging that states what part of the animal that particular cut comes from, along with cooking instructions. MCT photo Spring vegetables in Parmesan broth with goat cheese ravioli. mound with beaten egg 1 beaten egg white with Parmesan broth white. Directions: recently was a kind of cross 5. Fold the pasta over 1. In a food processor, between a stew and a pasta that paired goat cheese ravi- mix the flour and 2 eggs the filling lengthwise, oli and spring vegetables. I until it just comes together making sure there's at least used asparagus tips and to form a rough dough. If one-half inch from the sugar snap peas for this that doesn't happen, add a edge of the fold to the recipe, but I've also made little more beaten egg, a beginning of the filling. similar dishes with English teaspoon or so at a time. Press down along the back peas, fava beans, shaved Remove the dough to a edge with the side of your radishes and even bolted floured work surface and thumb to seal. Press knead until it is smooth and between each mound of lettuce from the garden. The only part that's even elastic, about 5 minutes. filling to seal the sides, a little tricky is making the Wrap with plastic wrap and then press along the front ravioli. If that intimidates refrigerate at least 30 min- to make the final seal. 6. With a ravioli cutter, you (and it shouldn't ... it utes to relax the gluten. 2. In a mixing bowl, beat cut around the pasta to takes less than an hour of work and it's actually really together the fresh goat form a decorative edge, fun), you could substitute cheese, Parmigiano-Reg- then cut between the fillquadrati — little fresh giano, egg yolk, chives and ing, always front to back, to pasta squares; make them parsley. Taste and add more form the ravioli. Place the pasta on a baking sheet beautiful by including salt if necessary. 3. Divide the dough into lined with a cotton dish leaves of fresh herbs on the 4 equal parts. Work with towel sprinkled with flour. last turn of the dough. Gnocchi would work one one piece at a time, Repeat with the remaining too, but if you insist on keeping the remainder cov- pasta. If you make these dried pasta, use tiny orzo or ered in plastic. Flatten the early in the day, turn them stelline. This dish empha- dough with your hand and over from time to time so sizes delicacy; any of the then pass it through the they dry evenly. chewier shapes would be widest setting of a pasta out of sync. Cook them sep- machine, folding the dough WE arately so they don't cloud into thirds after the first ACCEPT FOOD time, and repeating until the broth. STAMPS Most everything can be you make a thick sheet WE prepared in advance, so approximately 5 inches BLACKFEATURE CANYON only a few minutes of cook- wide. Continue putting the ANGUS BEEF 8049 Hwy 99E, Los Molinos, CA CUSTOM ing are needed just before dough through each setCUT MEATS AT NO EXTRA "Your Family Supermarket" serving. Make the Parme- ting, finishing with the sec- NO CARDS REQUIRED CHARGE FOR EVERYDAY LOW san broth and the goat ond-to-thinnest setting; the We appreciate your business - and we show it! PRICING OR SALE ITEMS cheese ravioli. Prepare and sheet should be 6 1/2 to 7 HOURS: 7AM - 9 PM DAILY inches wide. Lightly dust blanch the vegetables. We Accept EBT Prices good April 17 thru April 23, 2013 Then at the last minute the machine or dough with reheat the broth and bring a flour if it sticks. The pasta It's Back! wide pot of water to a boil. will be very thin and almost Cook the ravioli and divide translucent. Lay the pasta it among warm pasta bowls. sheet on a floured surface. 4. To fill the pasta, place Reheat the blanched vegSaturday May 11th 8am-5pm etables in the same water a small (2-teaspoon) Come Early For Best Selection, Items Available and arrange them over the mound of filling at 3-inch While Supply Lasts! ravioli. Ladle over some intervals, 1 inch from the broth and sprinkle with edge, along the length of Watch For Items & Prices Coming Soon chopped chives and a little the pasta. Use a pastry brush or your finger to grated Parmesan to finish. Meat Specials paint lightly around each Fresh USDA Choice USDA Choice Meaty Pork Sea Best Beef Beef GOAT CHEESE RAVIBeef Sirloin Snapper Spareribs T-Bone or OLI Chuck Chops Fillets Porterhouse Red Bluff Garden Club Bagged 50 minutes, plus relaxRoast Steaks Fryers Presents It's ing time for the dough. 52nd Annual Standard Serves 6 1 1/2 cups flour FLOWER 2 eggs, plus more if SHOW & needed PLANT $ 79 $ 99 $ 99 $ 99 $ 79 $ 19 12 ounces fresh goat lb. lb. lb. lb. lb. lb. 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