10
www.thejewelrybook.com
When a luxury company opened in
Germany in 1923, as hyperinfl ation
raged, most observers likely shook
their heads in disbelief—until they
understood the forward-thinking
nature of the fi rm, Schaffrath.
From headquarters in Hanau outside
Frankfurt, a newly established dia-
mond cutting house enlisted the help
of a nearby community of stone cut-
ters and polishers to develop a busi-
ness. With this expertise, the fi rm
grew to become a player in the
international diamond-dealing scene
complete with De Beers sightholder
status. Midway through the century,
though, offi cials sensed a business
shift as production and fi nished
goods poured out of India and South
Africa, places with lower labor costs.
To thrive, the cutting house expanded
its niche to include fi nished jewelry.
Schaffrath initially made staple
items like tennis bracelets until the
market changed again. Machine
manufacturing expedited produc-
tion at lower costs, and sales tapered
off around 2000. At that point,
Alexander Leuz, head designer, co-
CEO, and son of third-generation
jeweler Jürgen Leuz, stepped up to
save the company with a bold
design-focused initiative.
"People were getting educated about
design in jewelry, so we needed to
S
C
H
A
F
F
R
A
T
H
O
N
T
H
E
C
O
V
E
R
From Diamantaire
to Design House
Schaffrath started as a loose-diamond house in
Germany and has evolved into an internationally
recognized jewelry design fi rm known for a
boundary-breaking aesthetic.
BY JENNIFER HEEBNER
Christian Schaffrath Alexander Leuz
LIBERRTÉ® ring white
gold 18 Karat
with 0.50ct.
