North Bay Woman

S U M M E R 2 0 1 5 | NORTH BAY WOMAN 41 The first step Tastes change with the times, but the mean- ing remains constant, and so wedding and engagement rings are treasured traditions. An engagement ring usually comes first, and Tam- my Hollingsworth of Hollingsworth Jewelers Gallery in Petaluma finds that many couples visit to look at rings to see what the future bride likes, and then the man returns on his own to make the final selection. Other men want to make it a surprise and learn what their girlfriends prefer by going to their Pinterest accounts. "That helps us," says Hollingsworth. These days, however, many make the choice as a cou- ple, and "It's nice when they come in together," she says. When couples don't know where to start, Tony Szanto of Rafael Jewelers in San Rafael guides them. "We have different collec- tions," he says, and he be- gins by having a couple look at as many as 400 designs and helps them refine the search. Within half an hour, they've usual- ly found four or five rings that seem special. Diamonds continue to be the most popular stones, with clarity, color, carat weight and cut—the four Cs—the major con- siderations for determin- ing quality. "The Asscher cut is my favorite," says Keith Bartel, a goldsmith, stone-setter and designer on Tiburon's Ark Row, explaining that it's basically a square emerald cut. The round brilliant cut is also popular, and "you just can't beat that for the return of light, sparkle," he says. "As far as brilliant stones go, I do prefer the antique cuts. The older stones have more character," he adds, pointing out that the diamonds might not be perfect, but they are more interesting. Many women prefer classic designs, and "we see an increasing number of ladies, whether they're in their 20s or 50s, who just have a feeling of yesteryear," says Szanto. "We have women who watch old movies on TV or study art and design, and they enjoy things that have at least a little of a flavor of rings that were made 100 years ago," he says. A more current trend is the halo ring, which features a border of pavé diamonds around a larger central diamond. "We're seeing a lot of diamond halos," says Hollingsworth, but regardless of what they finally choose, she believes a couple should learn about quality before making a purchase. "We give them a good education on diamonds," she says, and advises, "Go with your taste and judgment." Szanto advises people to go with their instincts rather than trying to convince them- selves that something else would be better than what they truly feel is right. "Shop with your heart," he advises. Wedding Rings As beautiful and meaningful as engage- ments rings are, the ring that holds the most significance is the wedding band. Most engagement rings have weddings rings to go with them, and Hollingsworth finds that couples usually opt for the set, but sometimes buy the rings separately, perhaps because it's easier financially for a young couple figuring out their budget. Szanto sees the same trend and observes that most wedding rings are in platinum or 18K gold, and white gold is very popular. As an alternative, some women prefer a very simple wedding ring, perhaps even vin- tage. "They don't mind if it's used," says Bartel, who adds that some also seek a vintage feel with small diamonds and engraving. For men, he finds that a comfortable fit is an important factor, so they look for a ring that's rounded on the inside. Most men want wedding bands, and "they are for every taste, everybody," says Szanto, who reports that most men prefer a traditional style, and rose, white and yellow gold are all popular, either in 10K or 18K and in different thicknesses. Black titanium is another option. With gay marriage legally sanctioned in every state in the U.S., same-gender couples are now in the market for wedding rings, and Szanto sees couples selecting similar rings, but with details that differentiate them. "There seems to be a little more emphasis on things that have more common denominators to them," he says. Hollingsworth, however, doesn't see any specific trend. "Each person is choosing what they like," she says, noting that some women want simple bands, and others want diamonds. Unique design For couples wanting a ring that's one of a kind, custom design is the way to go. Bartel, who spent two years each as an apprentice and journey- man and then continued his studies to become a master goldsmith, says, "Sometimes they have an idea, and sometimes they don't really know what they want, and I ask questions." He learns about a couple's tastes, lifestyle and preferences in metal, colors and design and asks if they prefer geometric or organic styles. "Usually after about five minutes, I have a pretty good idea of what kind of style they'd like," he says. "Most of the time I can get a sketch done or ask them to come back with pictures they've seen," he says. "Often they have a stone already; they have something to work with. I can also procure diamond and other gemstones for them," he adds. Next he narrows down the design and cre- ates a rendering, and he explains that a sketch or rendering has to be accurate to avoid any surprises. Occasionally he does casting and makes a sample in wax, but most of the time he works with metal, and he recommends that people plan ahead, because it can The popular halo ring is on trend this season and features a border of pavé diamonds around a larger central diamond. –Photo provided by Hollingsworth Jewelers. >>

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