Look Book

friends have. They want to be themselves. They are choosing presence and character over whose is larger and personal style over status and competing with their friends and peers. Today's designers have stepped up to the challenge of creating some truly distinctive rings. They are focusing on the most popular of the new variations of these historical shapes: rose cuts, opaque rose cuts, old mine, cushion and European cuts and then variations on each of these to form even newer 'old' cuts. A brief overview of these cuts will give a better understanding of the choices and help you select the shapes that have lasted throughout time and continue to evolve into the heirlooms of a new generation of women. The Rose Cut: Shaped with a flat bottom and domed crown, this diamond cut was given it's name because its facets resemble the delicate petals of a rosebud. Triangular shaped facets bring brilliance and reflection to the stone. Believed to have originated in India during the sixteenth century, the rose cut enjoyed resurgence again in Europe during the eighteenth century and nineteenth centuries. In Georgian jewelry, rose cuts are most often seen in closed backed settings with a thin layer of foil between the diamond and the metal to produce intriguing light and color effect. They were usually shown in silver fused over yellow gold. During Victorian times and into the early twentieth century, open backs allowed the stones to reflect natural light. T re n d s 2 013 They are focusing of the most popular of the new variations of these historical shapes: rose cuts, opaque rose cuts, old mine, cushion and European cuts and then variations on each of these to form even newer 'old' cuts. Old rose cuts were rarely calibrated and were sometimes irregular in shape. The new versions, which are being produced today, come primarily from India and they are calibrated and can be matched up for earrings as well as necklaces and bracelets. Although rose cuts don't have the brilliance of a modern full cut diamond; the subtle warmth and the cut's larger spread (which gives it an appearance of being bigger than it is) has contributed to the renewed popularity of this stone. In addition we are seeing different shapes such as pear and ovals in rose-cuts. Today's rose cuts are also being offered in a multitude of opaque hues from all shades of grey, green and bluish greens, pink and peach tones to the browns of champagne and cognac. And, like the little black dress, the black rose cut has become a classic among the cutting edge. The Cushion Cut: Developed in the eighteenth century, this cut was more refined and elegant and became the favorite of nineteenth century jewelers. Originally called old mine cut, the cushion cut became named for it's pillow shape of a square with curved sides and rounded corners. Both the cushion cut with it's 58 brilliant style facets and old European cuts which were developed toward the end of the nineteenth century (but were more circular in shape) are considered to be the direct ancestor of the modern brilliant. Cushion cuts can also be identified by thinner girdles and larger culets. Antique stones refract light in block like patterns; newly cut cushions have more needle like patterns. They are also cut with smaller culets, which makes for a more sophisticated version of this diamond. They are available in white and most natural colored diamonds. Like the rose cut, they also give a larger appearance than modern brilliant cuts. From Georgian through Victorian and early Edwardian times, they were shown in three and five stone engagement rings and also as pedant earrings. They also became the centerpiece for floral and garland style brooches and necklaces and were set in silver over yellow gold with a patina or oxidation which lent itself to the stones softer reflections and refractions of light. Today's cushion cuts are most sought after for larger carat earrings and engagement rings. They still look best when designed with a feminine antique feeling. Flatter version cuts of classic diamond cuts: marquise, and pear shapes with fewer facets and smaller culets table cuts are some of the more exclusive and limited edition pieces designers are showing in both white and opaques. Some of the independent designers who are creating alternative bridal looks shared their inspirations, favorite cuts, styling techniques and insider tips on what to look for in these engagement rings. 28 W W W.theWeddingringbook.CoM

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